from the Progressive Botany Vol. I Collection
Fig-leaf, Cardamom, Olive, Juniper, Frankincense
Orris Butter, Rose Absolute, Pomegranate, Myrrh, Vetiver, Guaicwood, Papyrus, Hay, Birch, Cedarwood, Castoreum*, Valerian, Sandalwood Oil
*of synthetic origin.
With an overall impression of salty savouriness, and a juxtaposition of freshness with dry aged qualities, Medullary-Ray offers something which feels familiar and unique in equal measure.
Medullary-Ray opens with the rasp of metal on newly varnished wood and develops into something smokier as heady orris butter, incense and animal notes bloom on the skin.
A distinctive and persistent fragrance with moderate projection.
Setting the Scene: The Woodcarver’s Workshop
Under the Tuscan sun, the woodcarver’s tools are laid down for a noontime siesta. Heartwood shavings curl and flutter in a warm, iris and resin smoke-laden breeze.
A lazy working lunch – olives, parmesan, pomegranate – and a cross-legged recline amongst dry fibrous grasses.
On a day like this, sun and scent warm the heart and soul like nothing else.
Material Focus: Benzyl Acetone
Benzyl Acetone is one of those very useful materials to have to hand at all times. Its stability, interesting freshness and good performance makes it highly prized in soap formulations – but those attributes are also very useful in fine fragrance applications.
The profile of Benzyl Acetone could be described as fresh-floral, but with a weight and thickness that doesn’t always accompany fresher profile materials. While there are fleshy, white floral undertones at play, the material’s effect within woody compositions should not be overlooked. We routinely employ it alongside Benzyl Acetate and Benzyl Alcohol for fuller spectrum and greater performance.
We may also use Benzyl Acetone solo in a multitude of ways and for different styles: from exotic white floral notes to woods, ouds, incense and ozonic profiles: a little amount could really be used in any formula.
In Medullary-Ray, using a dosage below 1% allows for a strengthening of the woody impact on the initial application – providing a hit of freshly varnished wood upon first spritz, before the richer, smokier wood sensations take over, transporting you to an Italian woodworkers atelier, olives for lunch included!