WELCOME TO JORUM JOURNAL ISSUE 21
JORUM JOURNAL is a monthly glimpse behind the scenes at independent perfumers Jorum Studio. Find out what’s inspiring us, what’s motivating us, what we’re celebrating – the thoughts and stories behind our unique fragrances.
OCTOBER at Jorum Studio brought visitors from near and far to our Edinburgh boutique. Autumn has long been a wonderfully atmospheric season to visit the city and experience its full gothic glory – and this year it seems like the secret is out!
seasonal scent: autumn harvest
Embrace the darkening days with our curated selection of autumnal fragrances that celebrate the season in all its transient, amber-hued, spooky wonder.
Evoking lingering memories of late-summer berry picking, Healing Berry is the perfect Scottish berry perfume to bring comfort and joy to darkening days.
Blackcurrant Absolute, Tayberry, Willowherb, Sloe, Wild Mint, Rose Absolute, Logan Berry, Buckler Fern, Violet Leaf Absolute.
Artemesia, Raspberry leaf, Orris Butter, Himalayan Balsam, Cereal.
Our witchiest scent by far, Carduus is a dry, warm, herbal perfume that feels ancient yet thoroughly modern: right at home in spooky season.
Chamomile, Bengal Pepper, Honey, Clary Sage, Marjoram Tea, Myrtle, Vetch, Clove Bud, Hart’s Tongue.
Musk-thistle, Heliotrope, Tormentil, Mahogany, Cocoa Absolute, Tobacco, Deertongue, Cherrywood.
Perhaps you're dreaming of a Mediterranean escape from those brisk autumn winds? Medullary-Ray brings salty-savoury warmth and glimmers of sweetness to a xeric sandalwood perfume.
Fig-leaf, Cardamom, Olive, Juniper, Frankincense, Pomegranate.
Myrrh, Vetiver, Guaicwood, Papyrus, Hay, Birch, Cedarwood, Castoreum*, Valerian, Sandalwood Oil.
*of synthetic origin.
Few scents transport you quite like Firewater. Autumnal late-night beach bonfires with old friends, woodsmoke perfume in the air, juicy citrus on your tongue.
Black Tea, Juniper Berry, Nettle, Grapefruit, Beardtongue, Osmanthus Absolute, Ginger, Bracken, Larch.
Birchwood, Sugar Kelp, Guaiacwood, Vetiver, Oakwood, Benzoin, Labdanum Absolute, Peat.
A mysterious scent to capture the crepuscular, the veil-thinning, the otherworldly. Fantosmia brings cool-touch obsidian glimmer to piquant spiced perfume and molecular magic.
Black Pepper, Annatto, Cardamom, Pimento, Fennel, Sisho Leaf.
Mate, Cascarilla, Nutmeg, Aetoxylon, Castoreum*, Saffron, Tobacco, Leather.
*of synthetic origin.
Weird Walk: Wanderings and Wonderings through the British Ritual Year by Weird Walk
A wondrous wander through ancient sites across the uk, arranged into seasonal points of interest. Perfect for any folklore fanatic.
The 100 Mile City by Deyan Sudjic
Following the architectural evolution of five major cities – London, Paris, New York, Tokyo and Los Angeles – and exploring how lives are lived within them.
All Good Things: A Treasury of Images to Uplift the Spirits and Reawaken Wonder by Stephen Ellcock
Stephen runs one of our favourite Instagram accounts curating otherworldly images, objects and mythologies – and his inspiring books delve even deeper into the magic.
MATERIAL FOCUS: Methyl Pamplemousse
Methyl Pamplemouse is a material I could happily discuss at length. On the face if it, it’s a pleasant grapefruit-leaning citrus. We could leave it at that! However, there is so much more to Methyl Pamplemouse and it’s worth spending time with it. Once you acquaint yourself with the material and work with it over time (using lower or higher percentages and assessing the affects), you’ll begin to realise it’s used everywhere, in all types of perfumes and even some places that you wouldn’t immediately suspect (such as trace amounts in oud style perfumes).
Methyl Pamplemousse opens with a joyous bitter freshness that pairs beautifully with any other citrus – a booster with bergamot, a drying agent with orange… Besides its obvious applications in citrus themed perfumes or accords, Methyl Pamplemousse can be used to great effect is more unusual fruit notes such as guava or rhubarb sensations.
I find it brings out interesting qualities in white floral materials, especially jasmine, gardenia and magnolia materials such as Hedione® and Magnolan® – there is a special synergy that occurs between these materials, where Methyl Pamplemousse adds dewy realism and ethereal sparkle.
I use Methyl Pamplemousse alongside Paradisamide™ a lot in my work as I find Methyl Pamplemousse adds naturalness to most sensations and smaller amounts of Paradisamide™ adds even more (controlled) naturalness to fruity and juicy profiles when needed.
Some really interesting results can be had with combinations of Methyl Pamplemousse and oakmoss absolute, related mossy Veramoss, fenchols, pyrazines and similar grapefruit, vetiver and/or rhubarb materials – Floropal®, nootkatone, vetikol acetate, Khusinil®, Vertofix®, Rubafuran®, Rhubofix® and the newly released IFF captive Operanide with its strong amber, mossy and green leafy qualities produces noteworthy results.
Methyl Pamplemousse: use it wherever you can and learn from it – it has the power to improve and positively transform any formulation if used smartly and creatively.
You can read more about how Methyl Pamplemousse is used in Firewater Extrait de Parfum here.